A Christmas Market Cruise Down the Rhine Delivers a Welcome Dose of Holiday Magic for Our Editor

So why would this self-proclaimed Grinch take a chance on a river cruise down the Rhine? A few reasons—chief among them, the Christmas markets. While many European towns celebrate the holiday season with their own traditions, those lining the Rhine in Germany and France seem to sparkle a little brighter.

Their winter festivals overflow with charming stalls, mouthwatering treats and festive décor. The chance to visit several of them in one week felt not only irresistible but delightfully efficient.

Viking’s sleek, intimate longships proved equally appealing. Unlike the cavernous ocean liners I’d sailed on before, our elegant vessel hosted fewer than 200 guests. The smaller scale encouraged genuine connections—with fellow travelers, attentive staff and even the journey itself.

Contrary to the popular notion that cruise cabins resemble closets, I found both the living area and bathroom surprisingly comfortable. The ship also offered plenty of inviting spaces, indoors and out, for mingling or quiet reflection—perfect for taking in the castles and storybook scenery drifting past.

And a tip for the claustrophobic: Keep your curtains closed during the occasional lock change (usually overnight). Those, too, are part of the adventure!

Dining far exceeded my expectations. Each evening’s menu featured chef favorites, daily specials and dishes inspired by that day’s port and local traditions. Meals could be paired with regional wines, a vintage of your choosing or a well-crafted cocktail. Most nights ended in the lounge, where we enjoyed our drinks to the sounds of local entertainers—a perfect close to each day on the river.

Each day on the cruise offers several excursion options, both within and beyond the scheduled port. While guided tours and visits to local Christmas markets are included in the cruise package, other specialty dining experiences and excursions require advance reservations and an additional fee. These tend to fill quickly, so it’s wise to plan your itinerary early to ensure a spot.

Viking’s Christmas on the Rhine itinerary either begins or ends in Amsterdam or Basel—both cities well worth exploring in their own right. Plan to add a few extra days on either end of your journey to soak in their charm.

Our voyage departed from Amsterdam, with our first adventure taking us to Dordrecht in the Netherlands. From there, we opted for a short bus ride to historic Gouda (yes, like the cheese), where we discovered the history and artistry behind Holland’s beloved sweet treat, the stroopwafel.

Cologne marked our first stop in Germany. One of the cruise’s larger city ports, it boasts several lively Christmas markets, each brimming with festive spirit.

My favorite unfolded in the shadow of the city’s iconic Gothic cathedral—a destination worth visiting. Sip cinnamon-scented glühwein and nibble on spekulatius, a spiced holiday cookie beloved across Germany. With ample time in port, consider staying into the evening and dining at a local restaurant to experience a true taste of German hospitality.

The following days carried guests through Germany’s storied Middle Rhine, with one leisurely afternoon devoted entirely to taking in the region’s castle-studded scenery from the ship’s deck. Stops along this stretch included Koblenz, Rüdesheim, Mannheim and Speyer—each offering its own markets, character and regional flair.

France entered the itinerary with the enchanting city of Strasbourg, a highlight for this confessed Francophile. While its Christmas markets share similarities with their German counterparts (vin chaud versus glühwein), Strasbourg’s holiday spirit has a distinct je ne sais quoi.

Centered around its magnificent cathedral, the city charms with narrow cobbled streets, storybook canals and bustling squares. As in Cologne, the extended time in port allows for your own dining adventures—ideally accompanied by a generous pour of Alsace wine.

The cruise made one final stop in Germany at Breisach, with an excursion to medieval Freiburg’s wonderful yuletide market and a delightful organ concert. Then it was auf wiedersehen, Germany, and bonjour, Switzerland, as we disembarked in international Basel.

We left joyful and jolly, our suitcases filled with ornaments gathered along the way. And yes, this former “cruise Grinch” found his heart growing at least three sizes that day.

Dutch Treat

Spotlight Amsterdam

Few cities balance history and modern vibrancy quite like Amsterdam. With its golden canals, gabled houses and world-class museums, the Dutch capital invites exploration at every turn. From cycling alongside locals to sipping coffee in centuries-old cafés, Amsterdam charms with a timeless ease—equal parts storybook and sophisticated.

Once a bank and later a music conservatory, the Conservatorium Hotel pays homage to its fabled past with a striking blend of heritage and modern design. Guests gather and dine in a light-filled, glass-enclosed atrium built atop the building’s original façade. Rooms feel both spacious and serene, accented with thoughtful touches of Dutch craftsmanship. Elegant arched corridors lead past mosaic-tiled floors and furnishings that marry art nouveau grace with contemporary flair.

Beyond its famed stroopwafels and pancakes, Amsterdam’s dining scene shines under the guidance of celebrated local chefs. Inside the Rijksmuseum, RIJKS, helmed by executive chef Joris Bijdendijk, celebrates an elevated “cuisine of the Low Countries” in a sleek, newly renovated space.

A short distance from the city center, the Michelin-starred De Kas offers a greenhouse-inspired experience where chef Savannah Hagendijk brings the “plant-to-plate” philosophy to life. With ingredients sourced from the restaurant’s own garden and nearby Beemster farms, each vegetarian-forward dish feels both soulful and artful—a feast for the eyes as much as the palate.